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2G 6-bolt Documentation
1. One of the biggest issues you will have with the 6-bolt/1G motor transplant is the P0300 Random Misfire MIL, caused by the less accurate 1G cam sensor. This causes the car to randomly stumble, and run poorly until you leave off the gas for few seconds. All my chips starting in 2008 have had the Random Misfires ignored, so this is no longer an issue. You do NOT have to request this code, it comes in all new 2G chips.
2. Another issue caused by the 1G cam sensor is that the injector timing is off when using a 1995/96 ECU. This is also an issue when using a 1995/96 ECU on a 1997-99 DSM with stock cam sensor. Since all my 2G chips require a 1995 EPROM-type ECU, this needs to be taken care of. The first thing you need to find out, if you did not personally do the 6-bolt swap, is whether or not the injector wires were swapped at the ECU. You either need to talk to the mechanic who performed the swap, or compare the wire colors to see if they are original or not. The injector wiring swap is discussed in the Magnus documentation here:
Magnus pdf
If the injector wiring has NOT been swapped, you need the "CAS Inversion" feature, so please check that box when ordering your chip.
3. Related to the injector issue is the change in the ignition firing order, which is also caused by the 1G or 1997-99 Cam Sensor with a 1995 ECU. Normally, the easiest thing to do is simply swap plug wires 1&2, and 3&4, so that each cylinder is now fired from the opposite ignition coil. This could also be accomplished by swapping the 2 ignition driver wires either at the coilpack plug or the transistor connector. But, to make my ECU's 100% plug-n-play, I can also swap the ignition outputs inside an ECU. Please just let me know in the "comments box" if you would like me to do this to an ECU purchased in my store. With this modification to the ECU, along with the CAS Inversion feature, no wire swapping is necessary, and the complete ECU package is plug-n-play in a 6-bolt swapped car. The guys at ECMTuning have a nice writeup to help you figure out if you need to swap your spark plug wires:
Plug Wire Swap
4. The next thing we need to discuss is what fuel pressure you will be running. In most cases it is easiest to use the original 2G fuelrail and Fuel Pressure Regulator, which gives you a higher 43psi base fuel pressure. If you used a 1G 5-speed FPR, you need to put "37psi" in the fuel pressure box. If you have an AFPR, we can discuss what the best fuel pressure would be for your setup. Please contact me at .
5. In most cases, the 6-bolt swap includes the use of the 1G throttlebody. This usually requires that you remove the TPS from your 2G throttlebody, and install it on the 1G throttlebody. But, it seems that too many guys do not take the time to properly recalibrate the TPS after the swap, which causes issues. Here is a nice writeup on DSMTalk to help you recalibrate the TPS: DSMTalk thread
Also, the 2G TPS includes an Idle-Closed Switch, which is a separate item on a 1G throttlebody. It is very important that this switch be working, because I use it in my chips for selecting one of the five stutterbox/launch rpm's when you first turn on the key. To check if your Idle-Closed Switch is functioning, simply check for continuity between pins 3 and 4 of the TPS harness with the throttle closed.
Idle Closed Switch Troubleshooting
6. Many questions come up concerning the emissions controls on a 6-bolt conversion. Since the 1G intake manifold, and most aftermarket intakes, do not have any place for the original MDP/MAP sensor, many guys prefer to ditch the sensor completely. However, this will cause an MIL P1400 error code. And, since the MDP sensor is also used in testing for a functioning EGR system, you will also get a P0400 EGR MIL code. One thing you can do is to simply plug the MDP sensor into the harness, and leave it unbolted from the motor, but this will still throw the P0400 EGR MIL. In my opinion, deleting the EGR is not always the best option, and I'm not saying that just because I am unable at this time to remove the P0400 code. The EGR does not hurt your performance at WOT, it improves the gas mileage, and there is some evidence that it helps keep the combustion chamber cooler, which can help with knock issues. The best answer is to keep the MDP sensor, by using this neat adapter made by JM Fabrications:
JM MDP Adapter
In case you have removed the EGR and/or the MDP sensor, and need some help reconnecting them, I have a couple pictures here:
EGR Diagram
Vacuum hose diagram
Other pieces of emissions equipment that are often discarded are the several solenoids under the hood, for the boost control, EVAP Purge, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and EGR. I am now successfully beta testing code that removes the MIL for any of these solenoids being removed. But, it should be noted that in most cases, as long as the solenoid is still plugged into the harness the ECU will not throw a code. The exception to this is the EGR solenoid.
The last piece of emissions equipment that I'd like to mention is the rear O2 sensor, which is often removed when a bigger exhaust is installed, or when a wideband sensor is installed. I am also now successfully beta testing code that ignores both the rear O2 heater circuit (code P0141) and the Rear O2 Malfuction (code P0136). Just let me know in the comments box if you need these removed.
7. Other bug fixes: The 1995 ECU had a couple bugs in it, including one that reports the MIL lamp is lit all the time, even when there are no errors. The 1995 thru 1997 cars also had a lot of trouble completing the "Readiness Tests" required in some states for emissions testing. All my chips now fix both these issues automatically, so there is no need to make a special request.

Note: Any ECU modifications without the proper supporting mods can cause damage to your engine if improperly used. is NOT responsible for any damage caused by the modification of your ECU.

Please address any questions / comments to